Shirt



(No Model.) '2 Sheets-Sheet L B. GALLAND.

SHIRT.

No. 404,475. Patented June 4, 1889.

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(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet;

BJGALLAND. SHIRT.

Patented June 4, 1889.

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U ITED STATES PATENT ()EEICE.

BERTHOLD GALLAN D, OF SCRANTON, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHIRT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 404,475, dated. June 4, 1889.

Application filed May 28, 1887. Serial No. 239,662. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, BERTHOLD GALLAND, a citizen of the United States, residing in Scranton, in thecounty of 'Lackawanna and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in Shirts; andI do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making part of this specification.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represents a rear perspective view of a shirt provided with my improvements; Fig. 2, a detail view showing the improved collar-band lining and back facing; Fig. 3, a detail view showing the improved means for re-enforcing the collar-band button-holes; Fig. 4, a detail view showing the improved means of staying the lower termination of the back slit or opening; Fig. 5, a detail view showing theimproved device for staying the seams under the arms; Fig. 6, a detail View showing the improved device for strengthening the terminations of the side seams; Fig. 7, a detail view showing the improved wrist-band lining.

Like letters designate corresponding parts in all of the figures.

My invention consists in the several features of improvement hereinafter set forth and claimed.

First. I make an improved lining A for the collar-band and adjacent facings of the back opening of a shirt. This lining not only extends along the collar-band, but continues in one piece down inside of the two edges of the back slit or opening across the yoke B, and as far as desired below the yoke, as shown at a, Figs. 1 and 2. This lining, cut from one piece, not only is quickly and cheaply made and applied, but prevents the ripping of the seams which join the neckband and yoke and the seam which joins the lower edge of the yoke to the body of the shirt, relieves the collar-band and yoke from all strain, adds materially in retaining the collar-band and yoke in shape during the wearing of the garment, removes the possibility of ripping the neckband-seam, and reduces the thickness and bulk of the seams. Similar lining-bands A A are used inside of the wristbands of the sleeves havin extensions a a therefrom 7 a a which form facings at the edges of this sleeve opening, each lining and facing made in one piece, as shown in Fig. 7. These continuous linings'and facings relieve the Wristbands of strain, retain them in shape during wear, remove the possibility of the ripping of the seam, and reduce the thickness and bulk of the said seam,

Second. Another feature of my invention consists of a button-hole re-enforce 0, Figs. 1 and 3, formed of a piece of cloth or material placed between the collar-band and its lining, the button-hole being Worked through the same as well as through the collar band and lining, the said re-enforce piece being thickenedat the ends across and beyond the points or terminations of the button-hole, whereby the button-hole is rendered practically indestructible and cannot be torn at the ends or worn larger. The piece is retained in place not only by the button-hole stitch, but also by the top and bottom seams of the collar-band, or by any other additional seam found necessary or desirable.

Third. As an improved means of securing the end of the slit in the back of the shirt and the ends of the sleeve openings, I make a peculiar bar D, which consists of a series of transverse overcast loop-stitches forming a prominent solid ridge of closely-laid thread, substantially as shown in Figs. 1 and 4, across the entire width of the slit facing and prefably. beyond the same. This bar has such great strength as to render it practically im-,

possible to tear the slits and to make those parts of the garment as strong as and even stronger than if the garment were made of one piece of cloth. It also adds materially to the finish and general good appearance of the garment.

Fourth. For strengthening the seams at the junction of the sleeves and body of the shirt I under the arms, I employ cross-bands E F, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5. One band E is overlaid upon the seam f, which connects the sleeve and body of the shirt, and the other band F crosses the band E, nearly at right angles, and at one end is overlaid upon the longitudinal seam g of the sleeve, and at the other end is overlaid upon the side seam h of the body of the shirt. These cross-bands thus form an interlockingstay, each band protecting the other against all strain,thereby rendering that part of the garment, which is usually very weak, as strong as any part, and being sewed to the cloth outside the seams which they cover, they effectually protect the threads of the seams from the weakening effects of perspiration.

Fifth. As a substitute for the usual gussets, made of separate pieces of cloth, employed for strengthening the junction of the bottom hem and side seams of the body of the shirt, I form gusset projections G G, Figs. 1 and 6, on the adjacent edges of the cloth at these points integral with the body of the cloth, which, when the garment is seamed at the sides, overlap each other and form a stay of two thicki'lesses of solid cloth and of considerable extent between the lower ends of the side seams and the terminations of the bot tom hem of the shirt. These overlapping projections are united by one or more rows of stitches l at near their edges, each commencing at or near the upper extremity of theprojections and continuing in one or more uninterrupted lines of stitches around the same back to the starting-point, so that there shall be no broken or discontinued threads at the angles betwecn the flaps. Besides, I continue the bottom hem along the lower edge of these overlap projections generally up to their widest points, as at a n, Fig. 6. By this union of overlapping projections on the body of the cloth I remove the lower ends of the side seams of the shirt a considerable distance from the points where the bottom hems of the shirt and side seams usually meet, and where by the usual construction the shirt is exceedingly weak and the seams are left unfinished, all of which I effectually remedy.

I claim as my invention 1. A shirt having collar-band and wriste band linings provided each with lateral integral extensions at its ends, adapted to form also facings for the edges of the adjacent openings, substantially as herein set forth.

2. A shirt having its collar-band provided with a button-hole re-enforce O, formed of a piece of cloth or other material inserted between the plies of the band at the place where the button-hole is cut, the ends of the said piece being doubled over across and outside of the,ends of the button-hole, whereby the shirt is strengthened opposite to the ends of the button-hole, as herein set forth.

3. A shirt having a stay at the lower end of the opening or placket in the front or back of the same, the said stay consisting of a series of overcast loop-stitches, forming a continuous ridge of closely-laid threads transverse to the length of the opening and composing a bar across thewidth of the facing, substantially as herein set forth.

4. A shirt. having gusset projections G G formed integrally on the adjoining edges of the cloth at the lower terminations of the side seams, the adjacent projections overlapping each other and adjacent portions of the cloth and being united to the cloth by a continuous row or rows of stitches near their edges and around the entire circuit thereof, substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth.

5. A shirt having gusset projections G G formed integrally on the adjoining edges of the cloth at the lower terminations of the side seams, the adjacent projections overlapping each other and adjacent portions of the cloth and being united to thecloth by a row or rows of stitches near their edges and the lower hem or hems of the shirt being continued along the lower edges of the projections and secured by stitching to the cloth, substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

BERT] [OLD GALLAN D.

Witnesses:

J S. BROWN, S. (I. MiLLs. 

